AMBERD AKHTALA BJNI FORTRESS EGHEGIK GNDEVANK
GOSHAVANK HAGHARTSIN SANAHIN HAGHPAT MAKARAVANK
HOVHANNAVANK
SAGHMOSAVANK
MARMASHEN TATEV TEGHER TIGNIS


Ancient Armenia


DEVELOPED MIDDLE - AGES

AMBERD

Amberd is a fortress complex with a church built on the eastern slopes of Aragats Mountain at 2,500 meters above sea level in the XI-XIII centuries. The special strategic position and the hard building efforts of mighty princes of their time Phalavunis, Zakaryans and Vachutyans make Amberd as a work of war fare art. The prince palace was in this fortress too.

 The fortress is still standing and it makes a great impression on tourists. It is extraordinary impressive: the view opening from the palace's windows on the ice tops of Ararat Mountain and Araratyan Valley. The palace is three-storeyed.



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On the 1st floor has armory and water reserves. In Amberd are persisted baths outside the palace. During the excavations of the baths were found graceful bronze faucets for hot and cold water.

None of the conquerors succeeded to capture Amberd. It is the unbreakable symbol of Armenian mountainous spirit.

AKHTALA

“Titan’s country”, mountain island, country of rivers, in these words is characterized Armenia and these words become more typical, when we visit Lory. Characteristic word referring to Lory-dweller “ the braves of Lory” is spread among people till today.

Almost all fortresses were protected only by one side, whence the castle incorporated to land, in other three sides the Armenians have never built a fencing, because they were naturally protected by 150-500 m rocks descending to precipice.

Here in this legendary place situated celebrated fortress in Armenia, Akhtala, on the top of the rock arising through the gorge of Debed. Akhtala, which is on the flat crest of the triangularly shaped rock with only one gate, is unique and inexplicable military-architectural building in the world. Huge gate and thirty meter tower on it, with special attractive phenomenon create a fantastic recognition, which can be explained as “military grandeur”.

This fortress was a powerful strategic point for the empire Kyurikyan Bagratuni formed in tenth century, where was saved the state exchequer. After it in thirteenth century prince Ivane Zagaryan have more strengthened the castle transformed it into the military pride of Transcaucasia.

Near to the fortress there is a church St.Grigor, which by the order Ivan Zagaryan was reconstructed by Kakhkedon style and till now with the well preserved frescos is the conduct of the medieval Armenian applied art.

BJNI  FORTRESS

 Bjni Fortress is situated in Hrazdan river gorge 54km far from Yerevan. The particularity of Armenian fortresses is that almost all fortresses are in capes surrounded by huge gorges and mountain rivers and as opposed to European fortresses almost all Armenian fortresses only in one side protecting walls in other 3 sides are protected by capes of 150-200m depth.

These principles of construction are in Bjni fortress. The fortress mainly was built by Grigor Magister Pahalvuni in 1031 in Bjni village. That huge rock rising up from the cave is a perfect natural fortress. Grigor Magister surrounded it in one side by two rows of mighty wall of 15m height. The wall in every 10m has a tower. The walls of this fortress have been standing for centuries, many armies fell down at these walls, and it will stand for more than thousand years – the result of Grigor Pahlavuni's talant.

EGHEGIK

 Eghegik, 10-13 centuries Siunats Orbeilyan  count’s residence is situated in Vayots Dzor 150 km south- east from Yerevan.

The fortress and the city are still standing and astonish everyone with its indescribable beauty. Sometimes historians call it “Capital”.

There are marvelous buildings in Eghegik from Orbelyans’ and Siunats’s times. The most beautiful among them is the fortress, which is situated in the north-west of old city. The fortress is surrounded by mighty ramparts, which have many turrets. Inhabitants say that the fortress has been built by count Smbat, that’s why it is called Smabt’s fortress

There are four churches to mention besides the fortress. In the north-west of fortress there is famous Tsakhatskar church (10th century).

Eghegik fortress and Tsakhatskar church are the union of attractive surrounding and human mind for the visitors.

GNDEVANK

Gndevank is situated 175 km south-east from Yerevan, in the gorge of the Arpa river, in Vayots Dzor district. Vayots Dzor is one of the most famous provinces of historical Armenia, real museum under the open sky.

During many centuries numerous Armenian princes, kings and foreign conquerors have fought for locating their claims to that paradise province. Vayots Dzor is mountainous, multiwater, warm place with fertile lands, which has a unique beauty. That’s why it’s said that when God took the Paradise away from Earth, he left one piece of it in Armenia, in Vayots Dzor.

Here, in this paradise, in the gorge of the Arpa river is situated wonderful Gndevank. It was erected in 936 by queen Sopa of Syunik.

Gndevank was built in imitation to the temple Hripsime, but it has quite another charm. In contrast to miracle of Hripsimeh, the splendor of Gndevank is completed by the gorge of Arpa, which has 200 m depth. There is amazing  harmony between the gorge and the composition of the monastery ensemble.

In her time the queen Sopa presented the gorge of Arpa with its two villages to the monastery and very soon it turned into a flowering garden, which amazes with its perfect beauty till today.

A bit later, in 996, in front of the temple was erected a gavit, which is the oldest one in Armenia, among the buildings of the same kind. Gndevank is also rich with carvings and is rare in Armenia in this conception.

GOSHAVANK

Goshavank, the most difficult architectural complex of medieval Armenia, is situated on the edge of the cave of the Areguni mountains 110 km far from Yerevan.

The monastery was founded by Mkhotar Gosh in 1188 A.D., favored by  Ivane Zakaryan. The monastery ensemble consists of four churches, two chapels one jamatun, two storeyed writing house, two academy buildings. Its other name is Nor-Ghetik, as it was erected in place of an older monastery, Ghetik, which had been destroyed by an earthquake. But Mkhitar Gosh’s fame was so wide that the monastery was calls Goshavank in his honor.

He founded a science academy in Goshavank, in which was taught divinity, mathematics, music, writing, miniature, architecture and law. Gosh was the first to write the criminal code, which was used not only in Armenia, but also in Georgia, Egypt, etc. One of his alumnis was historian Kirakos Gandzakeci, whose history is admitted as the basic of Mongolian marches in whole world.

The monastery assemble with its architectural majesty also has strange disproportionateness, because every church of the monastery is built according to individual architectural school laws. Maybe this is the reason why there are many legends connected with the monastery starting from the architecture of the monastery, a.k.a. “carpenter”, Mkhitar master ending with dreadful conqueror Timur the 1st.

 

Here is one of them: in 1375 A.D. Timur’s army conquered Armenia. He was told about Goshavank and its riches. Cruel Timur directed his troops to Goshavank, captured all the friars and ordered to surrender all the riches of the monastery. The friars told him that  the monastery was poor and there were no riches. Timur got angry and told that he knew the name of great Wiseman Mkhitar Gosh and that his mausoleum was entirely of gold. Then he was shown his modest mausoleum. Furious Timur ordered to bring all Armenian captives and to burn their children in front of their eyes. There is still the square and Timur’s stone throne, on which Timur was going to watch Armenians to surrender their their riches for their children. But the Armenians stood firm. At that time one of Timur’s generals advised him to burn all the manuscripts of the monastery academy. And then happened unexpected thing. Armenians promised to tell the place of the riches.

Surprised Timur called one of the villagers and ordered him to read the manuscript. The villager said he couldn’t read. Timur asked what was in the manuscripts that they surrendered the riches. The villager answered that there was the history of their nation, idea and belief.

It is said that Timur didn’t burn the manuscripts, took the riches and left but where no one can say.

 

HAGHARTSIN

The monastery complex of Haghartsin, X-XIII centuries, is situated 110 km from Yerevan, in the territory of  Dilijan state enclosure.

The complex consists of four churches, two narthexes, refectory and other buildings. A unique luxury and magnificence is given to Haghartsin by the surrounding woods with their virgin beauty. Gorges of abyss’s height, huge mountains covered with woods and a complete uninhabited territory, which even creates mysterious environment.

And after all this, before the look of the tourist, stands Haghartsin, a single model of architectural forms and slender lines, which is combined with the surrounding green. This is the harmonious alloy of the Armenian taste of form and nature. And it’s not surprising that two Armenian kings have found their rest in the monastery complex of Haghartsin.

However, the remarkable building of Haghartsin is its secular refectory the masterpiece of 1248 of the architect Minas, a unique achievement of the engineering mind of middle-ages, where the huge cover (21.6m x 9.6m) stands on just 2 columns.  It’s already thousands old years that such flight of Armenian mind draws a lot of tourists and visitors with irresistible temptation.

SANAHIN

Sanahin, the glory of medieval Armenia, is situated at a distance of 170 km from Yerevan in the area of Alaverdi town, in Deped gorge.

Sanahin monastery assemble consists of two churches, jamatun of 10th century, academy building of 11th century, book depository of 1063 gallery of 10th century, gavit of 1181, chapel of 13th century, a bridge of 1192.         

 

The exact date of the construction is unknown, but in 10th – 11th cc the number of monk union was already over hundreds. In this period Sanahin became the largest centre, and the school became an academy. In history it is known as Grigor Magister Pahlavuni Academy. In this academy was paid attention to humanities. The most famous alumnis of this academy were Teodoros, Anania. In 13th century in Sanahin was a medical school, in which were taught internals, biology and physiology.

         

 

The main church built by Khosrovanuish, the wife of Ashot the 3rd Voghormats as goodwill to her sons Smbat and Kyurike. Unlike to Armenian other churches this are the largest. Despite of its huge sizes the cupola with its harmony makes an impression of lightness on the visitor. The interior attracts with its arches of the cupola and especially with its huge torch with 112 waxies which are made of copper and decorated with silver embroiders.

The book depository is unique. In its sizes it is the largest book depository in Armenia. Every niche is decorated in the nation or religion style, in which language are written the parchments in that niche. On the north wall of the depository there is a tribune from outside, the 1st open air tribune in the world. It is of 1.5m height and near to the wall, so speaker could be seen and protected from the auditorium. The glory of Sanahin is tightly connected with Hovhanness Imastun (Wise) 13th century. He was famous chronologist, divine and mathematic. The legend says that he closed himself in the chapel and had been reading for days forgetting about food and water.

In the area of Sanahin monastery there is a family cemetery of Zakaryan princes, who were governors of Transcaucasia in 12th – 13th cc.

We also should mention the architect of this wonderful monastery – Grigor Tutevordi.

In Sanahin everything is in harmony: art, engineering, architecture. In Sanahin were born Loris-Melikov (1876-80) Russian general and Artyom Mikoyan – famous aircraft designer and Anastas Mikoyan, The president of Supreme Council of Soviet Union.

 

HAGHPAT

Haghpat is one of the largest architectural assemble of medieval Armenia. It consists of three churches, jamatun-gavit, chapel, refectory, book depositary and galleries.

The whole assemble is remparted and it is on the east slope of Bazum mountains.

The location of Haghpat is entirely harmonized with its surrounding: the gorge of 200m depth near Deped River, huge mountains covered with forests.

 

The main church of the assemble St. Nshan was constructed in 10th century by order of Ashot the 3rd’s wife Khosrovanush in 976-991 AD. It is distinguished by its compactness and harmoniously balanced shaped crowned with a tremendous dome. In the interior the fancy shape of the high cupola abutments, protruding to the centre, is smoothly combined with high arches, resting on them and changing over from semicircular to the pointed shape. There is some information that St. Nshan church had been built by Trdat, the genius of worldwide architecture.

 

Haghpat was also a large science centre of its time. There have been written many parchments, which are now in Matenadaran, especially Makar’s The Gospel book, with miniature of Haghpat School written in 1211.

We can separate from Haghpat assemble “Hamazasp’s House”, the largest secular building in Armenia. This is a rectangular structure in the plan with four inner abutments and the arches beginning from them and crossing the centre, form octahedron central part. The squat proportions of the building and its architectural details create the impression of interior and exterior heaviness.

And near all - this unimaginable gentle Khachkars.

 

MAKARAVANK

Makaravank is situated at Achajur village of Tavush district 150km far from Yerevan, The monastery is on the top of Paitatap Mountain surrounded by mighty ramparts and oak woods.

The monastery is built of dark pink andesite, tuff and occasional greenish stones. All this create artistic incredible view. Everything breathes antiquity, even the cold water in the front of the monastery gates.

The monastery consists if three churches, one gavit, one jamatun and other serving premises, and also the ramparts and outside monument. The oldest church of the monastery is of 10th century and the main church was constructed in 1204, gavit  - in 1207, St. Astvatsatsin (Mother of God) in 1198. Makaravank belongs to domed hall architectural style as the majority of Armenian monuments.

We should mention that none of churches in Armenia is alike to each other in architectural style.

The main church of Makaravank is with carved drum with mighty dome. The walls of altar daises, decorated with geometrical ornaments are of extraordinary interest. The ornaments feature various floral motifs making up unusual bouquets and all kinds of fishes and birds and also a man sitting in a yawl and a note near it – “eritasard” (fellow) – probably the self-portrait of the carver. The exterior and interior of the church are skirted by graceful arch arcature on twin half-columns.

Makaravank is also unique for its light with round and square windows, but each window is ornamental masterpiece.

MARMASHEN

Marmashen monastery is 120 km far from Yerevan to the northwest of Gyumri, this monastery has four churches (one of which, circular, has only recently been discovered with a jamatun and a chapel); the jamatun and the chapel are nearly in ruins. An inscription on the south wall of the main church informs us that it was built between 986 and 1029 by Prince Vahram Pahlavuni.Marmashen monastery is also called Vahramashen. Vahram Pahlavuni was an Armenian general during the last period of Bagratinu kings. A famous general, which in 1045 defeated Byzantine army near Ani. Of cupola's hall type with an umbrella shaped cupola, the church is constructed of huge stones, some of which are two meters high. Three of the exterior walls have double niches. The only entrance is on the west. Like the exterior walls, the drum of the cupola is adorned with half columns, which produce a beautiful decorative effect.

This impressive monastic complex sits on a picturesque shelf with fruit trees above the Akhurian River, beside a stream that ends in a waterfall. The hills around are gold covered by corn fields and the monastery is surrounded by apple gardens.

Every man, that is a little bit painter in hid soul, can't be indifferent towards this view. Every visitor is admired by the carvings of the church, by the shine of the Armenian tuff and also thinks at the mausoleum of the legendary general. Maybe this is the only case when the real life becomes a legend during the life and eternalizes to another genius-Tiridat's created fairy-tale.

HOVHANNAVANK   SAGHMOSAVANK

Hovhannavank and Saghmosavank are 25km and 30km far from Yerevan on the large edge of gorge of Kasakh river.

It is unknown till now why these two monasteries are constructed so close to each other. Both monasteries have been constructed by Prince Vache Vachutyan and his wife Mamakhatun in 1215-1221.

Hovhannavank was constructed near a church of 5th century, but neither the monastery nor the cupola in their architectural style is alike to other Armenian architectural style. Speaking about the cupola of Hovhannavank we must mention that despite of its cover leaning on four mighty abutments, the construction seems like repeating shape. But there is something interesting: the cupola is covered by unique rotunda. The south and west walls are decorated with huge and gorgeous windows.    The cupola reminds more an emperor palace that a church.

None of Armenian churches has so magnificent entrance as Hovhannavank. Round the entrance is carved Jesus Christ and a fable. The church has cross bases and is centre cupolad, entirely carved. In this church seems like everything is hung from the sky.

Saghmosavank unlike to Hovhannavank is more modest in its shape, but the whole interior of Saghmosavank serves to the science and art.

The book depository and the school of Saghmosavank have been one of the famous depositories in medieval times. The depository is architectural unique building in Armenia. Interesting is that the depository is a church and hiding place meantime. In this monastery have been written several Armenian worthy inscriptions referring to medicine, philosophy, divinity and natural sciences.

The monastery in its laconic style makes a mysterious impression on the background of legendary Arai Mountain and Kasakh gorge.

TATEV

Tatev monastery assemble is situated to the south-west of Yerevan 215 km far from it. The monastery is on the gorge edge of Vorotan river (the deepest gorge in Armenia: 500m). The monastery is surrounded by high and thick ramparts and towers.

 It was built in 885. Due to its inaccessibility Tatev was the largest religious and science centre of medieval Armenia. Everything is wise and mysterious in Tatev.

The main – Poghos-Petros (Peter and Paul) church is a representative of cupolad hall architectural style, but this church is famous for its frescos, where was representation of The Last Judgment 600 years before Mickaelangelo’s Sistine Chapel.          

One of the wonders of Tatev is the waving crook of 6m height. It has been standing for over 1200 years (895 AD). There are many legends connected to this crook. One of them is that it is waving by itself when enemies are coming to Armenia.

Tatev monastery is also the richest assemble in Armenia. We even can say that it was a state inside of a state. In Armenia over 700 villages were the properties of the monastery. The monastery invested all the riches in education.

The glory of Tatev was its famous university of 14th century AD. In this university were taught such worldwide geniuses as Hovnan Vorotnetsi and Grigor Tatevatsi. In natural sciences and philosophy the world science considers Grigor Tatevatsi’s works as a basis. In philosophy he wrote the famous “The quarrels” (imagining the quarrels with Aristotle). He was the first to prove that “the movement” is the basis of everything. Armenian Church has sanctified Tatevatsi. He is buried in Tatev monastery. In Armenian churches it is forbidden to be buried in the church, no matter who he was. Only Mesrop Mashtots and Grigor Tatevatsi are buried in the church.

TEGHER

On the slope of Aragats mountain, on the 3000m height from sea level, there is one of the mysterious monuments of Armenia – Tegher monastery, 50km far from Yerevan (1220-1223). This monument consists of St. Astvatsatsin church and gavit with two churches erected on its roof, which has no entrance, though they are built according to the all churchbuilding laws.

In this mysterious building there are mighty Prince Vache Vachutyan’s and his wife’s Mamakhatun’s graves and in the southern part is buried the architect Aghbayrik. In our history it is learnt a little about this architect, but he deserved much respect owing to his unique role in Armenian architecture.

Tegher is surrounded by mighty walls, which have been recreated in 1468. Near Tegher is the famous Byurakan observatory and the space rays research mirror- the 2nd mirror by its size in the world with 50m diameter.

KAGHENI FORTRESS

Armenian capital Ani protecting this huge inaccessible fortress is still standing on the bank of Akhurian river. Its 25m height  tuff towels raise from the golden field. The fortress is with quadrate secant, in the corners with four circular turrets. The fortress has the second row of rampart, but it is lower than the first and it is injured. Inside the fortress there are two-storeyed economical building and store-rooms. Both Bagratunies and foreign conquerors appreciated the might and the inaccessibility  of Kagheni fortress.